Kitten guide

1. Care
5. First Aid
    Kitten Care

    The kitten you've been waiting for has finally come.

    While this is an exciting time for you, it may be challenging for your new pet as he or she adjusts to his or her new surroundings. She'll be separated from her mother and siblings and exposed to a range of unfamiliar sights, noises, and smells. Here are a few ideas to help you get your new kitten settled in her new home.

    (a) First things first

    Food and water bowls

    As their teeth mature, kittens want to gnaw on things. They'll try to gnaw through the food dish you got for them, so make sure it's stainless steel. Because plastic is harmful to them, avoid using plastic food dishes.

    Select a veterinarian

    It's critical to undergo an initial examination before taking your new kitten home, so pick a veterinarian. Pet-owning friends or family members can recommend one.

    (b) Potty Training

    Litter training the cats is amongst the most challenging tasks faced by pet owners. However if done properly it could be one of the most easiest tasks to do. It's as easy as putting your kitten in the litter box to teach them where it is. Kittens have an innate need to go pee in the litter box. If you're having trouble litter-training your kitten, simply sit and keep them in the litter box for a few minutes at a time while soothing them and giving them goodies.

    Allow your cat to paw the litter to become used to its new surroundings. You're just attempting to get your kitten's instincts to scrape up and conceal their excrement after they've gone potty.

    Select a large litter box

    Choose a spacious litter box for your cat. Small litter boxes are available for young kittens, however, kittens grow up so quickly that you'll have to change the litter box shortly after it's been introduced. Because replacing a litter box necessitates retraining the kitten, it's best to begin with a box that you intend to use for a long time. Large litter boxes are no problem for kittens as long as one side is low enough for them to step into. Use a piece of plywood or similar flat material with high traction to construct a tiny ramp if you discover a wonderful box but aren't sure if the kitten will be able to climb inside. Apply duct tape on the edge of the litter box and remove it once the kitten is large enough.

    Prefer an enclosed box

    When the space where kittens litter is enclosed, they feel protected. Enclosed litter boxes also prevent odours from spreading throughout the house. As a result, purchasing an enclosed litter box is recommended.
    Once the kitten has been accustomed to using the litter box, he or she will not excrete anyplace else in the house, allowing you to preserve cleanliness.

    Buy kitten litter rather than natural soil

    Many Indian households try to avoid cat litter and try to use natural soil thinking it is natural and would be better for cats to adopt. But the negative side is that natural soil does not have odour control properties and thus you’ll have to change the soil constantly. This could be a hectic process.
    Please consider the following points while considering a cat litter -

    1. For kittens, do not use clumping cat litter. It stays together in their intestines and can cause a major impaction if they ingest it (which they do).
    2. If at all feasible, use odourless litter. Perfumed litter may not appeal to kittens and cats; if the aroma is too strong, they may seek relief elsewhere. [5] Furthermore, some odours may irritate a cat's nose and eyes, as well as cause complications for cats with respiratory issues.
    3. Consider using a litter that can be scooped. Scoopable litter has become a popular alternative since it is simple to remove the kitten's waste.

    (c) Kitten friendly home

    Both you and your favourite pet will benefit from neutering. What are the advantages of neutering a cat? You'll have fewer unwanted litters and less parental anxiety.

    Your cat's veterinarian will neuter (or spay) her in order to make her infertile. The procedure of sterilising male cats is known as neutering. Spaying is the term used when both males and females receive the same treatment (nonetheless, you can refer to either procedure as neutering).

    Spaying your female cat before her first estrous cycle (going into "heat" or being able to breed) greatly reduces her risk of cervical cancer and eliminates her risk for ovarian cancer. Because removing the ovaries reduces the levels of hormones that encourage the growth of cancerous tumors, spaying reduces your cat's risk of mammary cancer as well.

    Unneutered male cats are more likely to become enraged because harmones help them find mates and defend their territory. Fights are more likely to break out if there is a female cat in heat around. Neutered cats, on the other hand, are more calm and collected.

    Similarly, when females are in heat, they may feel compelled to leave the house in order to find mates, which might be risky.It is thus preferred to neuter or spay your kitten. When felines are in heat, they also discharge body secretions. These fluids carry odours that alert males to the presence of a reproductive female. This may attract male cats who are attempting to capture the attention of your female cats. As a result, spaying your female cat will solve the identical problem.

    (d) Neutering

    Make preparations before bringing your new cat home to ensure a seamless transition. The first step is to kitten-proof your home by looking at each space from the perspective of a cat. Close or block off any openings, vents, or nooks and crannies she could be inclined to investigate. Remove any electronics and power cables, as well as window blind cords and any other strings. Remove any things that might cause a choking danger.

    Setting aside a calm place as "base camp" for your kitten to get adjusted to her new surroundings is also a smart idea. Other pets should not be allowed in this area, and small children should only be let in with adult supervision.


    A general assumption about kittens is that they are not trainable. People think that dogs can be trained more easily and cats cannot be trained and thus, pet parents avoid training pets.
    Cat are highly intelligent animals and they can be trained just as efficiently as dogs can.

    Train your kitten to sit

    So you may begin training your kitten by introducing a simple skill such as sitting on demand. You may use a clicker or verbal instructions like 'yes' and 'great work' as soon as your kitten's bottom touches the ground after you urge him to sit.

    Developing socialization skills

    Kittens should be socialized between the ages of two and seven weeks. This is an excellent opportunity for your pawsome pal to meet and mingle with other kittens. As a result, it is recommended that you take your buddy for a trip or for a stroll, allowing them to explore different situations and meet other cats and kittens. They will be less socially hesitant later in life as a result of this.

    Handle your kitten in a range of ways

    Handle your cat in a variety of positions to get him or her acclimated to being lifted up and handled. Get your kitten accustomed to having their sides, backs, and legs touched. For each hold and activity, give your cat a treat. More comfortable kittens can be treated right after a hold, however more cautious kittens may require treatment after each handling movement. When your kitten is young, getting him acclimated to being handled can make it simpler for you to cut his claws, brush his teeth, and clean his ears when he becomes older.

    Train your pet to play with toys

    Playing with your cat is a terrific way for your kitten to bond and burn off excess energy. When a cat owner allows their kitten to bite, the kitty learns that it is OK to play with their teeth and claws on the skin of the owner, which may gradually escalate into more significant bites and scratches. Instead, use toys to interact with your cat. A feather on a string, a ball, or a catnip toy will delight your cat just as much as your hands.

    (a) Travel training

    The first and foremost thing would be to start early. Just like humans, young cats too have a great grasping power. Also they have almost none body troubles as young body is more adaptable to new things and adventures.

    As soon as the kitten grows more than 2 months, their body grows quickly. Make small outdoor trips a part of your routine early on, and your cat will learn to accept them as part of living with you.

    Begin leash training and help them get used to it. Roaming around with your cat wearing a leash will help them get used to it. But also, remember that cats cannot be leashed all the time. Use it only when you are going out with your cat.

    Get your cat a microchip.

    Things happen, especially if you’re out and about in a wild and unfamiliar space. Cats are curious animals and their curiosity can take them places within few minutes. Be sure that if your cat gets lost, you’ll be able to find him again. A collar with contact information is a good step, but cats are notorious for their ability to wriggle out of any collar. Microchip your little adventurer too, just to be on the safe side.


    (a) Objectives of canine nutrition

    Objectives of feline nutrition


    Cats, like all other living things, require six different types of nutrients:

    Water is the most essential ingredient for maintaining good cell and body function. Water is lost by cats through their: LungsSkinUrineMilkFeces

    Cats have evolved to get the majority of their water from the food they consume. This is why a diet high in unprocessed proteins and water is essential for good feline nutrition. Canned cat meals are often developed with water content in mind, and each serving can contain up to 80% of this feline nutrition need.


    Cats are committed carnivores, unlike dogs, who are omnivores. This indicates that their bodies have evolved to a meat-only diet, which offers animal protein.

    Domestic cats are fairly close to their wild ancestors and have not developed significantly. Small rodents, such as mice, as well as rabbits, birds, insects, frogs, and reptiles, make up the majority of a cat's diet in the wild.

    The metabolism of a cat is perfectly adapted to a meat-only diet. Cats have a reduced capacity to produce specific amino acids, which are the building blocks of proteins, compared to herbivores and omnivores.

    Meat provides the amino acids that cats require. Cats have evolved to consume particular amino acids that are already present in meat and eggs since their bodies are unable to synthesize enough of them for survival. Cats get a lot of amino acids from their food.

    Cats require two more necessary amino acids: taurine and arginine. Most species require nine essential amino acids (amino acids that must be supplied from the food), but cats require two additional essential amino acids: taurine and arginine. Eating animal tissues provides both taurine and arginine.

    Cats are also unable to synthesise key vitamins that are essential to their health, including as niacin, vitamin A, and vitamin D, and must therefore obtain these nutrients from animal tissues.


    Vitamins are organic chemicals (produced by plants or animals) that are essential components of feline nutrition because they aid in the regulation of a variety of physiological activities, including:

    Immunity boosting

    Encourage developmeVitamins are organic chemicals (produced by plants or animals) that are essential components of feline nutrition because they aid in the regulation of a variety of physiological activities, including:nt and growth.

    Assist the normal functioning of cells and organs

    Vitamins are divided into two categories: fat-soluble and water-soluble. The distinction between fat-soluble vitamins and water-soluble vitamins is as follows:

    Vitamins that are fat-soluble are digested and can be stored in fat cells. They have a longer half-life than water-soluble vitamins and have higher acute toxicity values.

    Before the body utilizes water-soluble vitamins, they must dissolve in water. They can't be stored, thus they have to be thrown away.

    The following vitamins are water-soluble:

    Thiamine, Riboflavin, Pyridoxine, Pantothenic Acid, Niacin, and Vitamin B-12 are B vitamins.


    Cats are carnivores that have evolved to eat foods that are higher in protein and lower in carbohydrates than other animals (e.g., dogs). On a dry matter basis, cats' natural prey has roughly 55 percent protein, 45 percent fat, and only 1–2 percent carbohydrate (DMB). Adult cats have little demand for dietary carbs, however, they may be conditionally required during gestation and lactation.

    Healthy cats do not need carbohydrates in their diet. Although carbohydrate is not an essential dietary ingredient, it is physiologically necessary in the form of glucose.

    Glucose is the principal energy source for most cells in the body. Some cells can generate their own energy, but others, particularly those in the brain, require a constant supply of glucose. Because glucose is so important for living, several processes have been put in place to assure a constant supply at the cellular level. Dietary carbohydrate is employed as a convenient supply of glucose in most animals to fulfill cellular needs. When dietary glucose is in short supply, dietary protein is used instead.


    Minerals are inorganic compounds that are created in soil or water and absorbed by plants and animals to help them regulate:

    Acid-base equilibrium

    Structure of the tissue


    There is no commonly acknowledged mineral intake need for cats, just as there is no universally accepted vitamin consumption requirement, although a large body of evidence exists demonstrating the necessity for the following minerals to aid support good bodily functioning:










    The amounts of each individual mineral, as well as the interactions between them, determine the overall balance of a cat's diet. As a result, we advise speaking with a veterinarian or a veterinary nutritionist regarding mineral levels.

    (b) Nutrition guide


    4(a) Grooming

    Grooming your cat is the most vital component of a cat's everyday life as a cat parent. Cats are neat and tidy creatures who want to clean up after themselves at all times. They have a tendency of licking their claws and coat on a regular basis.

    The first few times you brush your cat, he or she may grow frustrated with all the attention. Keep the first few sessions brief, no more than five or 10 minutes. Once your cat has been accustomed to the routine, progressively increase the amount of time you spend cleaning them.

    1. Brushing - Cats' coats need to be brushed on a regular basis to keep them looking neat, especially if they have long fur. Brushing also aids in the removal of dirt and tangles, as well as the distribution of healthy oils throughout their coat.

      Short-haired cats only need to be combed once a week. Beginning at their head and moving toward the tail, loosen dead fur with a rubber or wood comb.

      Remove the dead hair with a rubber brush in the same way. Keep an eye on your cat's face, tummy, and chest at all times.

      But the reason we recommend grooming your feline companion is that it gives them a sense of security, and they begin to look at you in the same manner they looked at their parents when they were just born.

      Consider yourself lucky if your cat lets you groom them because you've passed the cat parenting test and they're content with you.

      Grooming gloves are one of the best grooming essential for furry cats i.e breeds like persian, maine coone, Himalayan, Siamese and other furry breeds.

    2. Bathing - Bathing is an essential part of keeping your pets clean. Because most cats dislike showering, bathing your cat can be a time-consuming task for cat parents. Here are a few strategies to help you make the process go more smoothly :

      First, brush your cat as much as possible to prevent hair from clogging your drain.

      After that, place a rubber mat in your bathtub or sink so your cat may stand or sit comfortably.

      Fill the sink or tub halfway with warm, not hot, water.

      Wet your cat completely with a pitcher or a moderate spray hose. Avoid their ears, eyes, and nose, as well as their ears, eyes, and nose.

      Working from the neck to the tail, gently massage on a tiny bit of shampoo.

      Rinse all of the soap out of their hair, avoiding their face.

      After drying your cat off with a warm, dry towel, keep them warm for the remainder of the day.

    4(b) Vaccinations

    To protect against hazardous and sometimes life-threatening infections, all cats should be vaccinated. Vaccines for your cat will differ depending on his or her lifestyle. Only the basic vaccinations are required if your cat lives in the house and does not come into connection with other cats. If your cat spends time outside or in the presence of other cats, the essential immunizations should be administered.

    1. Rabies - Rabies is a virus that almost everyone is familiar with. It is transmitted when an infected animal bites another sick animal. The illness is spread by saliva. Many countries require cats to be vaccinated against rabies. Even if you have an indoor cat, they should be vaccinated in case they escape or an animal enters your home by accident.

    2. The Feline Leukemia Virus - The Feline Leukemia Virus is transmitted by direct contact with an infected cat. All indoor cats that are exposed to outdoor cats should get this vaccination. Even if they will be indoor isolated cats, all kittens should be vaccinated against FELV. If you have any concerns about your feline's health or dangers, see your veterinarian.

    3. Virus of Panleukopenia - "Distemper" is a more popular term for this virus. Vaccination is advised since it is a very infectious illness. Fever, convulsions, lack of appetite, and death are all possible symptoms. For the first few weeks of their existence, kittens are born with a natural immunity. Vaccinations should begin at the age of eight weeks, with three to four follow-ups spaced about two weeks apart. In the future, your cat will need to be vaccinated every 1-3 years.

    First Aid

    Make sure you're always ready in the event of an emergency. The best course of action in any emergency is to contact your veterinarian, so learn the name of your local clinic and keep your veterinarian's phone number handy.

    Top Cat First Aid Recommendations

    1. Never give a cat human medications, and don't offer food or water if your cat needs an emergency anaesthetic.

    2. Any cat that is having trouble breathing should be handled with care and gentleness, especially if they are breathing through their mouth.

    Its a clear case of emergency when

    1. Your pet appears frail, hesitant to get up, or dull and melancholy.

    2. The cat is having trouble breathing, your breath is loud or quick, or you're coughing a lot and it's bothering you.

    3. The cat vomits frequently, especially if it is young or elderly.

    4. The cat vomits frequently, especially if it is young or elderly.

    5. Diarrhoea, on the other hand, is usually not a cause for concern (particularly in kittens) unless it is severe, bloody, or the animal appears weak or ill.

    6. If it lasts more than a day, feed tiny portions of a bland diet (cooked chicken or white fish) and consult a veterinarian.

    7. Your animal looks to be in excruciating agony.

    8. Your pet's balance has suddenly become a problem.

    9. Your dog or cat is attempting to urinate or defecate but is unable to do so.

    Paint on coat : If a material like paint or tar has gotten on your cat's coat or paws, don't let him lick it since it might be poisonous. Elizabethan collars are available from veterinarians, use them. You may be able to clip away the damaged hair in tiny sections, but never use turpentine or paint remover on your cat. Bathing may be required, so contact your veterinarian. Sedatives may be necessary to complete this task completely.

    Eye injuries : Use an Elizabethan collar to prevent paws from irritating a swollen eye. If your cat has been injured, has a closed or discharged eye, or has any other sudden eye condition, call your veterinarian right once. If chemicals have gotten into the cat's eye, wash it out with water (ideally from an eye bottle) and see a veterinarian.

    Heatstroke is uncommon, although it can occur if a cat is trapped in a heated environment, such as a greenhouse. Animals that have been affected are feeble, panting, dribbling, and agitated. Place the cat in a cool place, ideally in a draught. Wet their coat with lukewarm water (not cold water, which constricts blood vessels in the skin and decreases heat loss) and call the veterinarian.

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